Hosta - This foliage is a gardener’s best friend

-by Debra Anchors

One of the best-selling perennials in America is treasured not for its flowers but for its foliage.  Hosta has won the hearts of gardeners across the Country.

A Variety of Hosta

A remarkable tolerance for shade and cold, resistance to insects and incomparable beauty and variety make these perennials simply irresistible.  Rippled, smooth, ruffled or ribbed, leaves range in size from petite (three-quarters-inch long) to giant (22 inches long).  Foliage colors include bright yellows, cool blues, and just about every shade of green imaginable.  Foliage edged in white, streaked with gold, or striped in contrasting tones of emerald and cream provide ample opportunity for designing one-of-a-kind beds and borders.  According to the American Hosta Society, there are more than 30 hosta hybridizers at work in the United States alone.  Cultivars with showier, fragrant blossoms have been cropping up in nurseries, expanding the palette still further.  Old as well as new cultivars bloom with white or lavender flowers in late summer, just when a splash of color is needed most.

Site selection:  While hostas tolerate a range of soils in USDA Zones 3 to 10, slightly acidic soil, amended with organic matter, produces the most vigorous growth.  At least two and a half hours of morning sun are needed for the richest coloration; yellows need more sun, blues less.

Planting:  Plant rhizomes anytime, with large-leaved specimens no closer than two feet apart.  If possible, mulch the first winter with pine needles or boughs to prevent heaving.

Care:  Young hostas need two seasons or more to mature, and require regular watering during dry spells.  Before spring growth appears, put down a ring of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer around the crown of the plant (never allow fertilizers to touch plant ‘eyes’).  While some gardeners divide their hostas every five years or so, it is not essential.

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Leave a legacy, but garden like you’ll live forever! 
-Debra

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Gardening in a small space – solutions

-by Debra Anchors


Try these strategies to make the most of confined areas:

Organize the garden vertically rather than on a horizontal plane.  Gardeners with limited space have learned to grow up, not out.  Vines and climbers will draw the eye skyward, limiting emphasis on the floor plan.

Employ a focal point.  Statues, birdbaths, pergolas, arbors, and benches lend interest and help break up a small space into distinct areas.  Permanent garden structures also manipulate and reflect the light, always an asset, especially in winter.

Apartment Cottage Garden

Campbell, CA

Use containers to soften boundaries and utilize corners.  For added height, stack pots on crates or other inverted pots, and then accent the area with more containers set at ground level.

Think foliage.  In a small area, it’s just about impossible to achieve the ultimate goal of so many gardeners – to have something in bloom all season long.  However, careful selection of foliage plants will fill your garden from spring through autumn with a wide range of colors, from blue-green to chartreuse to bronze.

Erika Vetrini shares helpful tips on how to maximize your gardening space in the video below.

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Thank you for stopping by to spend time in my garden.  If you liked the article, please take a moment to let me know. I will be delighted if you would suggest Gardens Inspired to your friends, follow me or subscribe to my Blog.

Leave a legacy, but garden like you’ll live forever! 
-Debra

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The Buzzy Life of a Bumble bee

– or, the Busy Life of a Bumblebee, if you prefer.

-by Debra Anchors

Bumblebee and Lupine

Bumblebees have always fascinated me. I am forever amazed at how I can work in the garden close to them, yet the bumblers go about their business as if they know I mean them no harm.

Each fall, at the first signs of frost, a young queen bumblebee will seek out a place to hibernate in security. If you happen to find a live but listless bee in a pile of leaves in late fall, don't touch it; it isn't dying, it’s just in a cold, deep sleep. Put her back where you found her and gently cover her with leaves or mulch against the cold.

A gardener can help bumblebees by planting pollen-producing flowers and by allowing a patch of early dandelions to grow in a field or under a hedge as a food source for the young queens to find. As spring begins to warm, hopefully you will see the queen bumblebees flying industriously and visiting the earliest flowers. The large bees move slowly, as they search for sources of nectar and pollen to convert into honey and wax to feed their hatching larva.

The bumblebee queen will locate a desirable place to build her nest. The most common sites are under the fallen leaves provided in fall, an unused rodent hole, and any cool, dark place such as under the edge of a rock or the wooden floors of sheds or barns. In addition to in and under the ground, bumblebees can be found around patio areas or decks. Sometimes they will choose to build a nest in an attic or under a roof beam. Bumblebees don’t live in large colonies; the nest is generally about the size of a baseball.

A bumblebee queen starts to build her nest with a small ball created of pollen and wax, where she then lays an average of 6 eggs. When the eggs hatch, the larva eat their way through the stored pollen; the adult bumblebees add pollen and wax to nest - continually sealing the larva inside. As the nest grows, the larva changes its skin several times and then stops feeding, entering the pupal stage. The queen spins a yellow cocoon of silk and the grubs emerge a few days later as fully-grown worker bees.

If disturbed, bumblebees will first warn an intruder by buzzing at a loud level, and then will aggressively defend their nests. Bumblebees will sting when threatened, and will chase nest invaders for long distances.

As soon as their wings are dry, the worker bees begin supporting the colony and their bumblebee queen. The queen continues to lay eggs, but since gathering food for the larva progressively requires more of her time, collection of the pollen and nectar becomes the task of the worker bumblebees. The queen spends her time in the nest.

The community continues to thrive throughout spring and late summer, when the nest reaches its maximum size. At that point, the bumblebee queen lays the eggs which will become next year’s queens and drones (the male bees). Once they emerge from the nest, the young bumblebee queens will continue to live and work for their original colony during the remainder of the summer and fall. The drones leave and live independent lives. The one and only purpose of the drone is to mate with the young bumblebee queens and ensure the survival of the species.

Once the temperature drops to frost level, the matured queen, the workers and independent drones will die. Only the newly mated queens will endure by hibernation to begin the sequence again the following spring.

View and listen to more information about the queeen bumblebee by viewing this wonderful video, "Clever queen bumble bees", from Sir David Attenborough's Life in the Undergrowth.  Sir David Attenborough uses a thermal imaging camera to demonstrate the ingenious way a queen bumble bee heats up in the cold morning air to beat the insect traffic.



Sources of Information and Further Reading:

• The Humble Bee a book by F.W.L.Sladen
• About the Great Yellow Bumblebee - Here
• Photo and caption by Gesa Gustafson

Thank you for stopping by to spend time in my garden.  If you enjoyed this article, please take a moment to let me know. I will be delighted if you would suggest Gardens Inspired to your friends, follow me or subscribe to my Blog.  If you enjoy upcycled garden style, you may enjoy my magazine.

Leave a legacy, but garden like you’ll live forever! 

-Debra

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