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October 27, 2011

Tips for growing and displaying pumpkins

- by Debra Anchors

Raising a pumpkin isn't difficult; just about anyone can do it. But, growing a great jack o' lantern requires concentration plus rich soil, plenty of water and protection from insects, animals and high winds. Successful pumpkin gardeners give their vines lots of room and they feed them often (compost, well-rotted manure, an organic plant food/fertilizer and frequent doses of manure tea are good soil enhancements).  A hot-weather crop, pumpkins should be sown only after the weather warms; seeds planted too soon will rot. It’s wise to remember to rotate your crop (plant in a different area every year). Pumpkins cultivated in the same patch of soil two years in a row will be susceptible to insect attracts. Good companions include petunias and nasturtiums, both of which repel squash bugs.

Growing pumpkins:

To grow a symmetrical pumpkin (one which doesn't have a flat side), use a trellis for smaller varieties so that fruits don’t touch the ground. Gently rotate larger, earthbound pumpkins a little at a time every few weeks.

Pumpkins need about 14 feet of space in all directions to grow well. Gardeners with space limitations might consider applying for a plot at a local community garden or adopting a vacant lot (permission and access to water will both be required).

A soil pH of 6.0 and 7.0 is optimum.

Try growing a square pumpkin. Set young fruit inside a half-gallon cardboard milk carton, and then snip away the carton as the pumpkin outgrows it.

Prepare to surprise a guest of honor with a pumpkin emblazoned with his or her name. Etch the name into the immature fruit and watch it grow along with the pumpkin.

As for varieties, sculptors of all ages will want tot try ‘Connecticut Field’ (an heirloom plant) and ‘Jack-O-Lantern’. For cooking, try ‘Small Sugar’.  The best pumpkin for both cooking and carving is ‘Howden’. Ask the staff at your favorite garden center for suggestions.

To prevent critters from eating your pumpkins, put up a fence. To keep mice from gnawing pumpkins on display, spray your gourds with acrylic coating.

Display your pumpkins:

When it comes to pumpkins, excess is best. While many gardeners enjoy growing the biggest pumpkin possible, miniatures are equally irresistible. Of course, if you don't have the space to grow your own pumpkins, your garden center will have them available for purchase. 

Use the hallowed-out shells of small varieties to serve fall soups. Or, fill the shells with dips for a Halloween party.

Clean harvested pumpkins and gourds with a clean cloth dipped in a ten-to-one solution of water and bleach.

Cornstalks and pumpkins can be brought into service to create a charming vignette in front of your home.

You can extend your pumpkins’ display time by coating them lightly with acrylic or varnish.

A garden chair can be used to display your sculpted pumpkins off of the ground and closer to eye level.

Decorate a tree with miniature pumpkins (such as ‘Jack Be Little’, ‘Baby Boo’, and ‘Sweetie Pie’). Fasten a string around each stem and hang them from the tree’s branches.

Use items you have. Pumpkins piled into a wheelbarrow with mums as a backdrop creates a beautiful fall display. Don't worry that you didn't grow mums this season - your garden center will have many to choose from!






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Thank you for stopping by to spend time in my garden.  If you liked the article, please take a moment to let me know. I will be delighted if you would suggest Gardens Inspired to your friends, follow me or subscribe to my Blog.

Leave a legacy, but garden like you’ll live forever! 
-Debra

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October 25, 2011

Spooky, sinister and scary plants

- by Debra Anchors

While some plants are merely pretty, others are downright ghastly. Sinister names communicate an unorthodox beauty, while dark-hued flowers evoke tales of evil. In particular, the pursuit of black petals and foliage has captured the imagination of hybridizers for generations, despite the knowledge that in nature black is actually deep purple, red, blue or a combination of all three. Scour your garden centers for perennials on sale that you can plant yet this fall.

Creepy connotations aside, “black” flowers, seed heads and bulbs lend drama to the garden; some add a truly outlandish touch: The black voodoo lily presents a complete flower head up to three feet long; the plant’s putrid odor attracts pollinating beetles. For gardeners devoted to the art of darkness, it’s always Halloween.


Count on these bizarre beauties to add a touch of mystery to beds and borders –

Black dragon
(Coleus blumei)

Black Prince Pansy 
(Viola x wittrockiana)

Devil in a Bush 
(Nigella damascena) 
Also named love-in-a-mist

Devil Lily
(Lilium lancifolium)
Also named Kentan or Tiger Lily

Devil’s Backbone 
(Kalanchoe daigremontiana)
Also named Mother of millions

Devil’s Darning Needle 
(Clematis Virginiana)
Also named Old Man's Beard or Virgin's Bower

Midnight Oil 
(Hemerocallis, Daylily)

Mourning Widow 
(Geranium phaeum)
Also named Cranesbill

Queen of the Night 
(Tulipa Darwin)
Also named Black Tulip or Cottage Tulip

Voodoo Lily
(Amorphophallus konjac)
Also named Devil’s Tongue









If you enjoy this website, you might like my magazine, Gardening Life

Thank you for stopping by to spend time in my garden.  If you liked the article, please take a moment to let me know. I will be delighted if you would suggest Gardens Inspired to your friends, follow me or subscribe to my Blog

Leave a legacy, but garden like you’ll live forever! 
-Debra

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October 23, 2011

What is organic?

-by Debra Anchors


Leaves Compost
Does the fertilizer label at your garden center mention plant or animal based ingredients, like manure or seaweed? It’s probably organic. Does it sound more like a chemistry class? Then it's probably a synthetic or inorganic fertilizer.









Here are the differences to help you decide which is best for your garden:

ORGANIC
1.    Slow feeding
2.    Rarely burns
3.    Won’t kill beneficial bacteria in the soil

INORGANIC
1.    Quick feeding
2.    Often less expensive
3.    Can burn and damage plants as well as beneficial soil organisms

If you enjoy this website, you might like my magazine, Gardening Life

Thank you for stopping by to spend time in my garden.  If you liked the article, please take a moment to let me know. I will be delighted if you would suggest Gardens Inspired to your friends, follow me or subscribe to my Blog.

Leave a legacy, but garden like you’ll live forever! 
-Debra

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October 22, 2011

Tree bark enlivens the garden every season of the year

- by Debra Anchors


It’s easy to look at a tree and take little notice of its bark – easy, but odd in light of bark’s many gifts. Rubber, cork, varnish, frankincense, myrrh and even chewing gum are all derived from bark, as are medicines such as quinine (the salvation of malaria sufferers) and witch hazel. Your garden center will have a nice variety of trees known for their decorative bark and fall is the perfect time to plant one.

Gardeners value bark for its fascinating good looks (and sometimes for its usefulness as mulch) than for its economic potential. Thin or thick, paper-like or deeply textured, bark can be relied on to enliven landscapes even in the dead of winter. Snow clings to bark and sunshine bounces off its richly textured surface. Bark colors vary widely, with lichens enhancing the composition as the years go by. Because bark’s inner layer delivers life-sustaining nutrients and oxygen, it pays to protect young trees. Under-plantings of ground covers, ferns and hostas will keep lawn mowers and foot traffic at a safe distance.


Koreana Stewartia  (Stewartia  Pteropetiolata):  A palette of tan, emerald, lime and gray highlights the mottled surface of this tree. The rich colors persist throughout the year – Zones 5, 6 and 7

Paperback Cherry (Prunus Serrula):  Boasts paper-thin, mahogany-hued bark that glistens when the sun hits it – Zones 5 and 6

Paperback Maple (Acer Griseum):  Displays its exfoliating bark characteristic while the tree is still young. In winter, snow clings to the tree’s peeling cinnamon-hued surface, adding interest to the landscape – Zones 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8






If you enjoy this website, you might like my magazine, Gardening Life

Thank you for stopping by to spend time in my garden.  If you liked the article, please take a moment to let me know. I will be delighted if you would suggest Gardens Inspired to your friends, follow me or subscribe to my Blog. 

Leave a legacy, but garden like you’ll live forever! 
-Debra

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October 21, 2011

Dainty and Fragrant Cyclamen

- Debra Anchors

Cyclamen Garden
Mornings are getting darker, days are growing shorter and soon our gardens will be asleep for the winter, resting as they store energy for use in the spring. How will you warm your home with color this winter?  For me, I think the cinnamon-like scent of cyclamen will fit right into our indoor space this time of year.

When it comes to color intensity and duration of bloom, few houseplants can match cyclamen. Blossoms rest like butterflies atop silvery heart-shaped foliage - their lovely pinks and salmons wake up a room when massed on tables or stairs.

Hardy only to Zone 8, cyclamen can be seen in outdoor gardens in places with temperate climates such as San Francisco. Gardeners in colder regions can enjoy these graceful plants indoors where, given the right treatment, flowering can last as long as two months.

Exposure: Choose an east or west-facing window; direct light will cause leaves to wilt and turn brown.

Temperature: Cyclamen prefer temperatures on the cool side. A nighttime range of 50° to 60° F will suit the plants well.

Water: Plants should neither be too dry (neglected plants perish quickly) nor too moist (the tubers will rot). The best method is to place pots in shallow, water-filled trays and allow plants to drink from the bottom up for no longer than 10 minutes.

Food & Care: Feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer every week or so during the bloom period. To prevent seed from setting, remove spent blossoms with a sharp tug on the stem. Don’t just cut off the spent flower or the stem will rot.

Thank you for stopping by and spending a little time with me. If you enjoyed the article, please post a comment to let me know.  I will be honored if you would suggest Gardens Inspired to your friends, follow me or subscribe to my Blog.

Leave a legacy, but garden like you’ll live forever!
-Debra

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October 20, 2011

Rosemary as a Christmas Tree

- by Debra Anchors


Rosemary
Yes, it may be too early to think about Christmas, but October isn't too early to consider growing a rosemary plant to decorate for the holidays. A great option as a decorative element in an office setting, rosemary will lend its fragrance to the room as well as its beauty.  Due to its antiseptic and astringent properties, run your hands through the sprigs and leaves for a fast and fragrant hand sanitizer. The timing couldn't be better to choose the perfect rosemary specimen and begin grooming it for December.


Rosemary cannot survive outdoors through a Zone-5 winter (it’s a Mediterranean herb), but why not try growing one in your home now for use through the winter months?  Your favorite garden center may have one available right now. Many grocers carry rosemary plants in their produce section for purchase this time of year, too. Care for it, decorate it, and use it to boost flavor in your meals: rosemary is an adaptable plant.


I love to have plants around the house in the winter, especially fragrant ones. I love the look, smell, and taste of live rosemary and find that it is very easy to cut-away pieces from the bush and shape it into “tree” form. Just keep your tree shape in mind as you harvest pieces to cook with.  Leaves and even entire sprigs of the rosemary plant are used in meat dishes and stews, with roasted potatoes, and other vegetables – in fact, it can enhance the flavor of almost everything from appetizers to desserts (try it with baked apples).

Rosemary’s secret is that it likes to be continually damp but doesn't like to stand in water; so, it must be well drained. Rosemary will not grow well with water around its roots, but it will die if the roots dry out.

Our ancestors supposed that rosemary strengthened memory and researchers in Japan have evidence that rosemary does improve memory.  I think that’s reason enough to have one around, don’t you?

Here’s how:

Place the plant and its pot into a larger one filled with gravel. Be sure the bigger pot has a hole for drainage. Put a saucer underneath the pot to catch the water.

Water your rosemary at the base of the plant every day or every few days. Let the water run right through the plant and out into the saucer or into your sink, but be sure to empty the saucer.

Occasionally, gently rinse off any dead leaves and other debris that tends to build up around the base of the plant. You can let it soak in the sink for a little while and then drain it well.

Like many plants, rosemary likes humidity, so you can take the plant to the shower with you. Once each week or twice a month, place rosemary in your bathroom and take a leisurely, steamy shower. Your plant will love you and your bathroom will smell amazing!





Thank you for stopping by and spending a little time with me. If you enjoyed the article, would you please post a comment to let me know? I will be honored if you would suggest Gardens Inspired to your friends, follow me and/or subscribe to my Blog.

Leave a legacy, but garden like you’ll live forever! 
-Debra


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October 19, 2011

Prune your perennial flower garden

- by Debra Anchors


As we add new plants to our gardens each season, it's sometimes difficult to remember how to care for each of them. Then, what to do when fall arrives?  Below are suggestions for preparing your perennial flower gardens for a snowy winter. Cutting back and removing debris from around the base of your plants will not only help prevent disease, it will also keep garden bugs from nesting in your plants during the deep freeze. 


Look for your favorite flowering plant in the list below to discover how to care for it during the growing season and also to give your blooms a jump on next spring. The photographs are meant to assist you with plant identification, but perhaps you will see a few plants here to try in your garden next season. Planning next year's flower beds is one of my favorite ways to spend time during the winter months here in the Midwest.


Agastache 
(Agastache spp.)

Remove individual spent spikes to keep the flowers coming. Cut the entire stem of to the ground when finished to promote a late bloom. This plant is also known as Hyssop or Hummingbird Mint.



Aster, Stokes 
(Stokesia laevis)

Dead-head spent flowers to a side bud to prolong flowering. When flowers finish, remove stems to the ground. Stokes Aster may re-bloom - look carefully - buds and seed heads look similar. Available also in yellow.

Astilbe 
(Astilbe spp.)

Dead-heading won't stimulate more flowers, so leave seed heads standing for late-season interest. When they look ratty, cut them to the ground. Astilbe is sometimes known as False Spirea.

Baby's Breath 
(Gypsophila paniculata)

Cut panicles of spent flowers to side shoots to keep this perennial flowering longer. Shear stems to the ground after they finish to promote a second, smaller flush of fall flowers. Baby's Breath is gorgeous when dried and lends itself well to dried flower arrangements or as nosegays for your Christmas tree. This plant is also sometimes referred to as Gyp.

Balloon Flower 
(Platycodon grandiflorus)

Prolong bloom and keep plants fresh by removing individual spent flowers. Stems are tough - use small pruners and dip them in alcohol to clean them of the sticky sap. Balloon Flower reseeds year-to-year and is also sometimes known as Chinese Bell Flower or Japanese Bell Flower.


Beardtongue, yellow 
(Penstemon digitalis)

Remove the flowering stems to the low mound of leaves as the flowers fade. There will be a small amount of late-season re-bloom if you dead-head this plant; you'll also get a much better looking mound of new foliage. Sometimes Beard Tongue, this plant is also available in pink and sold as Tracy's Beardtongue.

Bee Balm 
(Monarda didyma)

Cut spent blooms back to side buds to prolong blooming. After it's finished flowering and entertaining the hummingbirds, cut stems down to 4 or 5 inches to promote mounds of clean, healthy foliage. Bee Balm rarely re-blooms. Look for this plant (actually an herb) in the color purple, as well. Other names are Bergamot, Wild Oswego Tea and Horsemint.

Bell Flower 
(Campanula)

Pinch off individual flowers as they fade. Cut the entire stalk back to within 6 inches of the ground when it's finished to encourage re-bloom.  Bell flower releases a sticky sap as you prune. Sometimes spelled as Bellflower, another common name for this beauty is Canterbury Bells.

Bergenia 
(Bergenia cordifolia)

Cut flower stems off at the ground after flowering to keep the plant looking tidy - Bergenia will not re-flower during the season and rarely reseeds. Other names for this plant are Baby Doll or Pigsqueak (Pig Squeak).



Blanket Flower 
(Gaillardia grandiflora)

Snip off individual flowers a few inches below the seed head to prolong bloom. Later, cut stems to within 6 inches of the ground; stop dead-heading in Blanket Flower August. This plant is sometimes spelled Blanketflower and is also known as Indian Blanket, Sundance Flower or Firewheel.

Blazing Star 
(Liatris spicata)


Cut stems back to the top of the foliage after the flowers fade. Smaller, second flowers, may sprout from the stem or near the ground. If not dead-headed, birds will feast on the seeds of Blazing Star. Other popular names for this plant are Gayfeather, Button Snakeroot and Rattlesnake Master.


Bleeding Heart 
(Dicentra spp.)


Cut flower stems down to the basal mound of foliage after they're finished to keep this perennial flowering well into autumn. Bleeding Heart can reseed. There is now a fern leaf variety of bleeding heart available which blooms during the summer. Bleeding Heart is also available in white.

Brunnera 
(Brunnera macrophylla)


Cut flowering stems with small leaves down to 2 to 3 inches after they flower to prevent reseeding. Leave basal foliage developing in the center of the clump. Brunnera will not re-bloom. A star performer in the shade, this plant is sometimes referred to as Siberian Bugloss or Jack Frost Plant.



Bugbane 
(Actaea racemosa)


Leave seedpods on this plant to add winter interest, or cut them off to uppermost set of leaves, leaving as much foliage as possible to feed the plant.  Bugbane will not re-bloom during the season. An herb, this plant is also named Black Cohosh, Baneberry, Snakeroot or Doll's Eyes.

Cardinal Flower 
(Lobelia cardinalis)


Cutting down spent spikes, 2 to 3 inches from the ground, will sometimes promote a small re-bloom.  Cardinal Flower is short-lived, so allow a few seeds to ripen or cut to ground layer a stem or two. You will also find this plant named Scarlet Lobelia.

Catmint 
(Nepeta spp.)

Also known as Catnip or Cats Wort. Cut stems down to 2 or 3 inches after flowering to keep Catmint looking neat. It may or may not re-flower after dead-heading.  Dead-heading will prevent reseeding.


Columbine
(Aquilegia spp.)


Available in a wide variety of colors, Columbine is very easy to grow and easy to take care of in your garden. Snip off spent flowers to side stems to keep columbines blooming; cut the entire stem to the ground when it's finished.  Allow some seed heads to ripen to ensure replacement plants next spring.


Coneflower, purple
(Echinacea purpurea)

Coneflower re-blooms just fine, even without dead-heading. Cutting off early blooms to a side shoot keeps later flowers larger. Leave a few seed heads for the birds unless reseeding is a problem. An herb, this plant is also called Echinacea, Scurvy Root, and Comb Flower.

Coral Bells 
(Heuchera hybrids)


Cut flowering stems below the low mound of foliage as coral bells finish blooming. Dead-heading will extend the flowering and will sometimes promote a smaller, second flowering.

Coreopsis, Threadleaf
(Coreopsis verticillata)


Use pruners or hedge clippers to shear plants to the ground in August to stimulate September and October re-bloom.  Dead-heading also helps prevent reseeding. This plant is also commonly called Whorled Coreopsis.

Corydalis
(Corydalis spp.)


There is no real need to dead-head Corydalis for re-bloom. You can shear the plant back after the heat of the summer if it looks ratty and it will quickly fill in and start blooming again. A member of the poppy family, this plant is also sometimes referred to as Harlequin Flower.

Daylily
(Hemerocallis hybrids)


Snap off spent flowers on your Daylily as they wilt to keep later flowers as large as possible. Once the stem is finished, cut it to the ground. Some cultivars re-bloom, others do not. 

Delphinium
(Delphinium elatum)

Pinch off spent flowers of Delphinium along the stems; cut the finished spikes to a leaf bud to encourage smaller side shoots. Cut back to basal foliage when all flowers are done. Available in a wide variety of colors, Delphinium often re-blooms and is also known as Larkspur. 

Dianthus 
(Dianthus gratianopolitanus)


Some cultivars of dianthus (carnations) reseed, so deadhead as soon as the flowers fade. Remove spent stems but leave the clump of foliage. Because the edges of the petals are often notched, these plants are commonly called Pinks.


Foamflower 
(Delphinium elatum)



Some varieties of Foamflower will re-bloom after dead-heading. Cut or pinch off the entire stem down into the low mound of foliage to improve appearance. This plant is also often referred to as False Miterwort.


Foxglove 
(Digitalis spp.)

As flowers fade, pinch them off along the stem. Remove stems to the basal rosette of leaves when most of the flowers are finished. Foxglove may re-bloom later with smaller flowers. Some varieties of this beauty will reseed. There are perennial and biennial cultivars of Foxglove.

Gas Plant
(Dictamnus albus)

Cut seed heads down to foliage after flowering or leave the star-shaped seed pods for late season interest. Gas plant will not re-flower with dead-heading but can reseed. This plant is also referred to as Burning Bush (because it emits a vapor capable of being ignited).

Gaura
(Gaura lindheimeri)

Gaura flowers much of the summer, without dead-heading, on stems that just keep branching. Cut out stems that have bloomed to reduce reseeding.  Cutting back encourages more branching during the growing season. Appleblossom Grass is another common name for this Austin wildflower.

Geum
(Geum hybrids)

Geum will flower much longer with attention to dead-heading during the growing season. Cut spent flowers back to budded side branches. Later, remove the entire stem to the low mound of foliage. Avens Herb is another name for this perennial.

Globe Thistle
(Echinops ritro)

Cut spent flowers to a side branch to keep the plant flowering as long as possible and you will be rewarded with a late re-bloom with smaller flowers. Cut the entire stem to basal foliage when Globe Thistle is through for the season. 

Goldenrod
(Solidago spp.) 

An herb, Goldenrod is a generous re-seeder in your garden and provides for many species of beneficial insects. Deadhead the first and largest flowers back to the healthy foliage to promote a smaller, second burst of flowers from side buds. Cut all seed heads to prevent reseeding.

Hardy Geranium
(Geranium spp.)

It is very difficult to dead-head individual flowers, so cut tall cultivars to 2 or 3 inches after most of the flowers have finished blooming. Cut low spreaders back to 4 to 6 inches. Some hardy geranium species re-bloom. This plant is also commonly known as Cranesbill and is available in pink, blue, purple or white.

Hardy Hibiscus
(Hibiscus moscheutos)

Pluck off spent flowers daily to keep this plant looking tidy and it will continue to flower for you (this will also prevent reseeding). Cut dead stems down to the ground or leave the seed pods for birds to enjoy. These beautiful plants are descended from the species commonly called Rose Mallow.

Heliopsis
(Heliopsis helianthoides) 

Don't cut off all of the spent flowers - goldfinches are fond of the seeds. Heliopsis reseeds, so you may want to remove some of the seed heads; will not re-bloom after dead-heading. This plant is also known as False Sunflower and Ox Eye (Oxeye).

Hellebore
(Helleborus spp.)

Pinch off spent flowers with your fingers or small pruners to prevent reseeding. Hellebore does not produce flowers more than once each season. This plant is also very well known as a Lenten Rose or Christmas Rose.
Hollyhock
(Alcea rosea)

Pinch off flowers along the stems as they wilt and Hollyhock may re-bloom for you on shorter stems. Leave a few flowers to reseed and then cut the stems to basal foliage once flowering has finished.

Iris
(Iris sibirica)

As blooms wither, pinch or cut them from the stems to keep the plant looking good and to prevent seed formation. Remove the entire stem down into the foliage when all flowers are finished.

Jacob's Ladder
(Polemonium caeruleum)

To keep Jacob's Ladder looking fresh and encourage new growth, cut the entire plant back to 2 or 3 inches. Let a few pods ripen to replace the short-lived parent plant. This one often re-blooms with dead-heading.


Jupiter's Beard
(Centranthus rubber)

This one is a prolific seeder if not dead-headed. As the flowers fade, cut back to side shoots. Juniper's Beard often re-blooms if the spent stems are cut down to 3 or 4 inches after the first flower. This plant is also called Valerian.

Lavender
(Lavender spp.)

Harvest the flowers of Lavender with stems. Cut the entire plant back to healthy foliage to promote a second flowering. The re-bloom is shorter than the first. Harvest the late flowers, leaving the foliage. Consider drying lavender and adding it to nosegays for your Christmas tree.

Lily
(Lilium hybrid)

Pinch or cut individual flowers as they fade. Leave the foliage until it yellows to supply food for the bulb; always try to leave as many leaves as possible. Lily does not re-bloom.

Lungwort
(Pulmonaria spp.)

Cut away flowering stems to tidy-up the plant after they fall to the side, exposing the new mound of foliage in the center. An herb, Lungwort will not re-bloom but can reseed. Wear gloves when working with this one due to it's prickly stems. This plant is also referred to as Jerusalem Cowslip or Lung Moss.

Lupine
(Lupinus hybrids)

After spring flowering, cut the stems just above the small emerging buds along the stems to promote a second flowering. Lupine reseeds, but seedlings will vary in color. Cutting these back to the ground will control aphids.

Mountain Bluet
(Centaurea montana)

Also known as Perennial Cornflower or Perennial Bachelor's Buttons, take care as this beauty can easily get away from you.  Cut spent flowers back to side shoots and trim stems down to 2 to 3 inches after they're finished flowering. Mountain Bluet often re-blooms and can reseed rampantly.

Mullein
(Verbascum bombyciferum)

An herb with woolly stems and leaves, prune Mullein's main spike to it's side branches. After bloom, cut the entire plant to the ground to stimulate late flowering. Dead-heading helps this biennial behave more like a perennial. This plant is also called Adam's Flannel or Beggar's Blanket.

Painted Daisy
(Tanacetum coccineum)

Snip the individual flowers of this plant off to a main stem as they fade. When the stem is finished, cut it to the basal foliage to keep the plant looking fresh. Any re-bloom will be small and sporadic. Painted Daisy is also known as Pyrethum Daisy.

Penstemon
(Penstemon barbatus)

Also called Beardtongues, Penstemon can be dead-headed to side buds or branches to prolong flowering. Cut the stems down to the ground when finished blooming; there is usually no re-bloom during the season.


Peony
(Paeonia spp.)

The fragrance of a Peony is intoxicating. Snip wilted flowers back to the first leaf to keep the plant looking tidy. Leave as much foliage as possible to feed the plant all summer. Cut the Peony back to the ground in fall.

Phlox, Tall Garden
(Phlox paniculata)

Prune the spent flower clusters so that the flowering side branches can develop. Dead-head the Phlox to the ground when it is finished blooming. Discard all plant material after pruning to resist mildew on next year's foliage. Tall Garden Phlox is also commonly referred to as Summer Phlox and Perennial Phlox.

Pincushion Flower
(Scabiosa columbaria)

Also known as Sweet Scabiosa and Mourning Bride, Pincushion Flower fits very well into cottage gardens. Pick off the spent flowers before seeds form. Cut entire stems to a basal rosette when they are finished blooming to prolong the blooming of the plant. Note differences between buds and seed heads - they look similar.

Rose
(Rosaceae)

Many people are leery and avoid growing roses;  there really is no reason to be. Remove spent blossoms by dead-heading weekly, if not more often. The rule-of-thumb is to cut back the stem to just above an outward-facing bud just above a five or seven leaflet leaf, close to the end of the stem. Roses are worth an investment of your time - they will reward you with years of beauty in exchange for little effort.
Salvia
(Salvia nemerosa)

A member of the mint family, Salvia is also known as Ornamental Sage. Dead-heading promotes a long bloom period. Snip off spikes to side branches and follow that by cut the spent stems back to the base of the foliage to encourage a late summer re-bloom.

Sedum, Tall
(Sedum spectabile)

There is no need to dead-head Tall Sedum. Leave the seed heads standing for winter interest and wildlife - they hold up to snow very well. Or, harvest the Sedum stalks for dried arrangements. Cut the plant down to the ground in the spring as new growth starts.

Shasta Daisy
(Leucanthemum xsuperbum)

Named for Mount Shasta in CA, Shasta Daisy is also known as the English Daisy. Dead-head spent blooms to side shoots to keep this perennial blooming almost all summer. Cut the spent stems down to 2 or 3 inches for a smaller re-bloom.

Speedwell
(Veronica spicata)

To prolong the bloom of Speedwell, cut the spent flower spike back to it's side branches. Once finished, cut the entire stem down to the gound. Speedwell may produce a small re-bloom later in the season if diligently dead-headed.

Spiderwort
(Andersoniana Group)

Also called Bluejacket or Widowstears (or Widows Tears), cut the stems of Spiderwort back to a side shoot or leaf axis for more flowers after all of the buds in a cluster have finished. If the plant looks ratty, cut it back by half to encourage re-bloom.

Tickseed
(Coreopsis grandiflora)

Frequent  dead-heading will keep Tickseed blooming almost all summer. Cut the flower stems back to the side branches. Eventually remove all spent stems to the ground. This plant is also referred to as Plains Coreopsis or Golden Tickseed Coreopsis.

Turtlehead
(Chelone lyonii)

A favorite of butterflies, there is no need to dead-head this plant due to it's seed pods that add winter interest. If seed heads look objectionable, cut them back to the healthy foliage. The many other names for this plant include Balmony, Bitter Herb, Codhead, Fish Mouth, Shellflower, Snakehead, Snake Mouth and Turtle Bloom.

Yarrow
(Achillea spp.)

Dead-head spent flower stems down to the ground. You can pick off only the spent flower heads, but you will get a much better late flowering if you remove the entire stem. There is a very long history of Yarrow growing on the North American continent; Staunchweed, Military Herb, Carpenters Weed, Old Mans Pepper and Soldier's Woundwort are among the other names attributed to this plant.


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